Sydney is, frankly, a bit overwhelming in its size and fast pace, particularly compared to our experience in Wellington last year. New Zealand seemed like a lovable and slightly eccentric uncle: but by comparison Sydney is a young guy, aggressive and a bit cocky. (Canada in a thong, as we have heard). And the city seems to go on forever, with suburbs and traffic spreading out in all directions on both sides of the harbor. After all, the population of the greater Sydney area is about 4.3 million—about the size of the entire New Zealand population.
The architecture and skyline of the downtown area are very striking. One prime example of urban redevelopment is the area known as Darling Harbour, which was the birthplace of Australia’s industrial age in 1815 with the opening of a steam mill. Later, the area became run down until a massive redevelopment project in the 1980’s transformed it into a tourist site.
Colonial outpost:
Industrial blight:
Redevelopment:
And, today, the Aquarium, the Maritime Museum and countless cafes and fast food joints bring in the crowds. The development company, Rouse, was also responsible for the Inner Harbor project in Baltimore, but Darling Harbour takes the concept to a new level.
But it’s not all urban sprawl and high-rise offices and apartments. Sydney also features smaller neighborhoods, like Potts Point (where we’re staying) and nearby Paddington, with its Victorian charm. Paddington began to flourish in the 1840’s, when it housed the skilled craftsmen who oversaw the convict gangs constructing the Victoria Barracks. Its narrow streets feature decorative cast-iron “lacework” balconies on terrace houses. After the Great Depression, much of Paddington had become derelict and was on the verge of demolition, until an influx of postwar migrants transformed the area. Now, it is a draw for “yuppies” seeking proximity to the downtown area. These photos give an idea of the area:
London Tavern, open since 1875, is the oldest pub in Paddington.
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